The Narrows , of Zion National Park is the legendary hike through the Virgin River up in to the canyon. I did it on my recent trip and I would happily do it again!
If you want to start your hike at Chamberlain Ranch and hike down the river you need a permit and you should also be experienced in canyoneering, in excellent physical shape and be able to swim.
However, hiking up the river, the way most people do, a permit is not needed, and you don’t need special skills, you should however be prepared.
To hike up the river take the shuttle to the last stop- Riverside Walk, and walk all the way to the end of the paved trail, where you hop in the river. It starts off shallow and then very soon it gets knee high, and as you progress the depth changes quickly and unpredictably. In some places the river is much deeper on one side than on the other one.
Usually I like to start my hikes early in the morning, but this time I started around noon and I was glad I did because by then the temperature was in the 80s and the cold water felt pleasant. In the first half mile or so the river was packed with people of all ages including lots of children, but most don’t go much further. After the crowds rarified the hike was much more pleasant. By then I also got somewhat used to walking in the river, the bottom of which is very uneven, sandy in some spots but mostly filled with rocks tiny and large.
↓ The crowds at the beginning
After about 2 1/2 miles into the canyon I arrived at Orderville Canyon, a narrower canyon splitting off to the right. This is about half of the hike one is allowed to do up the river without a permit.
I walked about another mile up to Floating Rock, where I decided it was time to turn around as the water was about to get much deeper, waist deep near the rock and shoulder deep soon after. I can’t swim so I didn’t take a chance any further and also because i was running low on daylight and wanted to make it back to the trail before it got dark. The entire hike is around 5 miles up river to Big Spring (a waterfall) where hikers are supposed to end their hike and turn back.
↓ This is Floating Rock
Things to keep in mind:
1. Make sure to check the forecast and with the Visitor Center for rain and flash flood warnings. If you get caught further inside the canyon there is little you can do to help yourself. You may be told to find higher ground but good-luck with that when on both sides you have sky high canyon walls. At first glance the Virgin River might not seem dangerous but weather conditions can change that very quickly.
2. It’s best to have water shoes, the rocks are super slippery. There are several stores in Springdale where you can rent them. It is $25 for a day and along with the shoes you also get a pair of neoprene socks and a wooden walking stick. I got mine from Zion Outfitters, which is located right before the entrance to the park. They let you take them the evening/afternoon before, so if you want to start early you can be all set to go. I really don’t know how I would have managed the hike had I not gotten them, so I strongly recommend you go prepared with the right gear. Even though I was equipped I fell once on my right knee and another time slid half way and got my bum all wet. If you go in colder weather you should consider renting a dry suit along with the shoes.
3. Instead of cotton clothing wear nylon or polyester which dry faster.
4. There are of course no toilets, if you plan on doing the entire hike you should have a poop bag.
5. Pack water, snacks and a trash bag.
Oh, and most importantly perhaps, don’t forget to look up, stop and enjoy the view!!!
